POP 1016 Friday 5 October 2012
Today's POP is Liz. Run Away, Turn Away, Run Away.
We've just received the memo: trainers with a wedge are IN. You may think Isabel Marant was first, but Italian heritage brand Ruco has been lifting the heels of women's trainers for over two decades. Everyone seems to be wearing them and the clever one behind it all: Ruco Line's Creative Director Daniela Penchini.
So to celebrate the brand's 25th anniversary (of course there's limited edition shoe…), POP sat down with Penchini to uncover what's behind that notorious "R".
Trainers are such an important element in a wardrobe as they allow a great deal of comfort and thus movement for women. You make shoes women really want to wear and feel functional in which sets you apart on the market. How did you get to this point and manage to find this niche?
Tenacity, enthusiasm and confidence in our own abilities were definitely key elements in the direction we have taken. And intuition, which allowed us to design the “200” in 1992 and, in 25 years of business, has led us to break down and redesign the initial model in order to arrive at a complete evolution.
Do you feel the brand is very much rooted in Italian craftsmanship? What is truly Italian about RUCO?
My region, Umbria, has a very important role: the craft traditions here are very strong, as is the art of weaving, the making of textiles and knitwear, such as cashmere. These are different areas, of course, but there is the same attention to detail and to the quality of the raw materials. And naturally my education and training as an architect was decisive.
POP 1015 Thursday 4 October 2012
Today's POP is Lena, back in NYC for the Wade Guyton opening at The Whitney…
POP loves Wade Guyton, of course. He does big Xs. Are they kisses or are they X marks the spot, the cross-hairs of a sniper's rifle? As Miles Davis riffed, "The World Is Rated X".
But there's much more to Guyton and this fantastic new Whitney show demonstrates that to full effect. He's an important colourist. Here that tale really unfolds.
Also, Guyton's design foundations now rise to the surface. Chairs – who'd have expected that?
This show truly is a must-see. We already knew Guyton was one of a handful of truly important new generation painters, but this is an incredible, bold and fresh display of Wade's World.
Don't just scan this one… Geddit?
POP 1014 Wednesday 3 October 2012
Today's POP is Tui. 33 Shades of Dress & A Coffee Table Book.
Bottega Veneta's first ever book couldn't launch at a better time. Why?
Well for one the house just launched a terrific collection, praised by critics (unlike some other unfortunate house).
POP verdict: Pearl Harbor (the movie) eat your heart out.
Subtle luxury is key to the brand's DNA, where understated sumptuousness is translated into superior craftsmanship which is exactly what the book is about. Each chapter is dedicated to a craftsmanship from fashion to jewellery, furniture and fragrance and is followed by an introductory essay by industry leaders. Contributors include Tim Blanks, Joan Juliet Buck, Sarah Mower, Barbara Casavicchia and many more.
The book is now on sale at your nearest Bottega Veneta boutique.
For more information go to Bottegaveneta.com
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POP 1013 Tuesday 2 October 2012
Today's POP is Bibi Borthwick. Positively 4th Street.
Go on a quick adventure with Roman Grandinetti, founder of CNNCTD, as he takes us on a tour of his latest curation of original murals designed for the release of Bob Dylan's 35th studio album Tempest.
POP girl Bibi Borthwick's got it documented.
As all good projects go, Grandinetti has created a smart phone app to go with the album's release. Sound graffiti is a location sensitive program that associates given locations to a track on the new album. Each location being significant in the life of Dylan, and each giving fans a more detailed preview of the album.
Times they are a changing.
POP 1012 Monday 1 October 2012
Today’s POP is Jodie. Collaboration #1011.
Having admired the evocative mixed media art of Duncan MacAskill for years, Ally Capellino commissioned a series of works by the designer now on display in her Calvert Avenue store to have marked the launch of this year’s London Design Festival (Yes, amidst the fashion circuit other disciplines do still exist). POP caught up with the star-crossed purists to talk drawing pins and feel the love.
What triggered this unique collaboration?
AC: I first met Duncan in 1997 when he was making an exhibition in the space that was to become the Wapping Project. The work was a great response to the environment with theatrically lit paints at one end of a normal scale, to a cut down and reconstructed tree from his front garden squashed into a room at the other end. I found it really exciting.
DM: I’ve long been an admirer of Ally’s work and so I was happy to work with her when she approached me for this project.
POP 1011 Weekend 29-30 September 2012
Today's POP is Liz. Ra Ra Rasputin: Swiss Disco.
In an old Swiss Church in Covent Garden during a the manic On-Schedule of London Fashion Week, POP discovered an off-schedule gem.
The Brand: RA RA by Swedish-born London-based designers Kari Landén and Karin Peterson.
Their Aim: To transcend the fashion system – queue Roland Bathes – and produce luxury garments which exist outside of trends and thus become more personal.
Their method: Ancient techniques including hand-finished hems, hand drawn and dyed fabrics.
The Result: Airbrushed silk dresses, blouses, vests and scarves; geometric shapes, raw edges and fine biased bindings; heavy linen canvas and blue denim. Layered.
POP loves a designer with a Raw Edge – in every sense.
Photography Devin Blair exclusively for thepop.com.
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POP 1010 Friday 28 September 2012
Today's POP is Karl at Palais de Tokyo. "Yes, I did that…"
Chloe Archives. Late.
It was the soiree of soiree's. Champagne was bubbling and Monsieur Karl was there to guide us through his collections.
Curator Judith Clark dug up garments, sketches, swatches and relevant photography from the House that spans from Lagerfeld's early days to Philo's later resurrection.
Clark, known for her non-linear, non-didactic exercises in fashion curation proposes an absolute representation of the Chloe girl. And while the distinction between each creative director is clear, Clark highlights the consistent understanding of the brand cross-character.
POP 1009 Thursday 27 September 2012
Today's POP is Stephanie at Saint-Sulpice waiting for the Balenciaga show. I hear Serge and Bridget on the radio exploding from a man's moto. Do you think we're in Paris?
It starts with strong ruffles and a gold beret. But actually they are not berets. Nicholas' girls have half of their hair pulled back, fastened with what is actually a gold semi-sphere hairband placed on the reverse.
Star trek crossed with a young medieval girl from a pre-Raphaelite oil on canvas. Plus a bit of Flamenco.
The garment's ruffles contrast with strict lines. Cropped rectangular sleeveless tops paired with a wide wave on the end of a skirt. A pinstripe trouser and top, a pale yellow suit. Bold jackets made feminine by touches of youth and delicacy via dainty gold pendant necklaces and classical hair.
There are lots of minis in tweed-like fabrics paired with thin gold rings on every finger, every hand. Hollow and solid cube-heeled lace-ups add that final touch of modernity that Ghesquière does without fail.
While this may not have been another weird trip by any means, it was still a perfect visualisation of the perfect modern girl. As per usual.
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POP 1008 Wednesday 26 September
Today's POP is Stephanie with Brian Wilson at Le Grand Palais.
A slight trip to the 90's with clueless-cute accessories – micro handbags in shades of white and pink and white circle-framed shades will be highly coveted - alongside a palette perfect for the Ballet Russe – nudes, pinks and burgundy's galore – made for a beautiful show today at Rochas.
Floral print skirts and appliqued silk headbands walked to the Beach Boys, both in conversation and singing. The all-white setting within Le Grand Palais was fresh and modern, like the collection.
Rochas gave us a great Autumn/Winter, and now he's given us an even better
Spring/Summer. Now we just need to get a hold of those fab 60's style white lace-up boots…
Wouldn't it be nice?
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POP 1007 Tuesday 25 September
Today's POP is Lily. Goodbye Somerset House… Hello Somerset barn
For S/S 2013, eponymous design duo Fanny & Jessy sidestepped the tiresome pandemonium of London Fashion Week actual by showcasing their new collection via a series of 5 film stings, one released each day of LFW. Clever, no? Oh and their collection is called Something Season-less 2013 or… ss13. Get it? So clever.
The films – inspired by magnified terrain and shot in the depths of a Somerset barn – are a bit super natural and a bit wonderful and can finally all be seen en mass.
Welcome to Uscopia….
Films by Danny Sangra
Models Georgia Frost at Select & Polly Brown at Next
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