Today's POP is Lily, POP City Girl Goes Country Bumpkin at The Hepworth Wakefield with Peter Jensen!
The Hepworth Wakefield emailed: Would I like to come up to Yorkshire for the British debut of Peter Jensen’s (Hepworth inspired) SS 13 womenswear collection, presented within the gallery itself? Um, yes. Yes please.
I really love Barbara Hepworth. I seem to have some great affinity for all that negative space. And I am not alone. Taking inspiration from Hepworth’s sculptural forms & abstract drawings, as well as the very clothes she wore to work in, Jensen has created a paired down yet memorable homage to Hepworth and her work.
The hats, created in collaboration with the milliners Bernstock Spiers, are the clearest connection to Hepworth’s work absolute. However, there are also gentler traces of both her life – prints of the scenic view of Hepworth’s beautiful garden in St Ives (haven’t been? Go!) (p.s. wait for summer) – and her as a woman. This is clothing you could potentially throw pots in.
It’s wonderful seeing a collection within the context of the art that inspired it. It feels a bit like looking at that piece by Alex Aleman: a painting of a man painting himself in a painting.
Alongside the work of Hepworth herself, the Wakefield gallery has some excellent Henry Moore’s as well as the current Spring 2013 contemporary collection, which includes the stellar trio of Alice Channer, Jessica Jackson Hutchins and Linder Sterling. A free dance, music and fashion performance drawn from Linder’s research into Barbara is taking place on Saturday 11 May. Titled At the heart of The Ultimate Form is a collaboration with Northern Ballet and award-winning choreographer Kenneth Tindall. POP will also be doing something top secret and very exciting… Watch this space.
Anyway, back on the Jensen track! Post-show I spoke with Peter about John Lewis, negative space and the world outside London…
PJ: One of my friends recommended I look at her and her work. I guess because she was awkward enough to follow in the footsteps of some the other muses we've worked with [past muses include Cindy Sherman and Sissy Spacek].
Also, I've always had this feeling that I didn't understand sculpture; so it was a lesson to look at her work. I also really liked her for what she looked like.
Have you been to Hepworth's house in St Ives?
Yes! Its so great. What a fantastic kind of life…
Which I think doesn't exist anymore in the same format anymore.
Do you have a favourite Hepworth?
I really like the one in Battersea park, probably because I've looked at it so much and studied it so much. I also really like the one in John Lewis, because I love John Lewis.
It just feels so secure. You don't feel shouted at. The women feel quite mumsy, you feel taken care of.
Lets talk holes and negative space; obviously this is central to Hepworth's work. Was it something you thought about a lot?
That was the main focus – the hole. I think it was the most fascinating, important, recognisable thing about her. And the negative space, it's something you could be absorbed into. I think its my job, as a fashion designer, to translate what it is I use for inspiration into clothing, rather than create another piece of art.
Does that mean you don't see yourself as an artist, per se?
Completely. I see myself as a fashion designer pure and simple. I have a real passion for skill and craftsmanship in the fashion industry, which is not even always to do with style. It's a craft.
Indeed. This is such an amazing space to show in. Did you approach them post-collection?
No, actually they approached me! They must have read that she was the woman behind the collection.
Had you been before?
No, I barely leave London. Up North, I've only ever been to Halifax! And now here…
It’s such an amazing space.
It makes you realise that there are so many incredible things going on outside of London. And how insular we are [in London]…
Words Lily Silverton
- POP 913 Monday 14 May 2012
- POP 1107 Thursday 16 January 2013
- POP 1126 Thursday 7 February 2013
- POP 1139 Sunday 17 February 2013
- POP 1174 Thursday 21 March 2013
You’re currently reading “POP 1217 Thursday 9 May 2013”, an entry on THEPOP.COM
- 09.05.13 / 7am