POP 473 Saturday 11 December 2010

Today’s POP is Ben, talking to menswear maestro Umit Benan.

Bit mental to be talking about spring/summer menswear when it’s brass monkeys on the streets of London right now, but Umit Benan’s collection for next season makes me feel warm on the inside. Just like what Ready Brek does for kids, Umit does for modern men.
POP spoke to the young Turkish designer about his fashion upbringing, and how strong masculine role models have influenced his real man’s man silhouettes.

POP: How much of an advantage was it growing up around the textile industry?
Umit Benan: A big advantage because you get to see, and breathe, the air of fashion’s first steps. But it was mostly being close to my Dad.

POP: Was there one thing in particular it taught you about working in fashion?
UB: Technically it taught me a lot. When sketching it’s very important to know what's possible, and what’s not.

POP: What most excites you about menswear at the moment?
UB: Not specifically in menswear but in general I like fashion and photography a lot, and I like my job lots. Everything about it excites me. And I’m still new, so nothing disappoints me yet.

POP: How do you start the collection each season?
UB: I always start with a character in mind, like the main character in a movie. First I write the story, and then I dress him up for the movie.

POP: Is the strong masculine appeal of your work down to the influence of male figures or role models that have been an important source of inspiration to you? Do you have an image in your head of the man you design for?
UB: His name is Pablo James, a Latin American that lives in NYC, an imaginary character of mine. But I think about other men too when I sketch: My Dad. Julian Schnabel. Robert Rabensteiner. Jordi Mollà. Colin Farrell. Vincent Gallo. Etc etc.

POP: How do you see the influence of your Turkish heritage come through in your work?
UB: I think growing up in Turkey is one of the reasons for my obsession with masculinity, and aggressive attitude in men. But other than that you don't especially see much of a Turkish influence. It could inspire me for sure, but from time to time.

POP: Your pieces have a well-loved realism about them, like ‘old favourites’ even though they have a Modernist edge. Do classic construction and wearability factor strongly in your design approach?
UB: I like to use older looking classic or vintage fabrics and give them a modern look with the design – but always within the limits. That way there’s a balance, and an interesting contrast comes out. Mostly because I think about characters when sketching, thinking how they would be wearing it, so it’s always wearable because they are also natural and real masculine characters.

POP: Can you imagine creating a menswear collection not based on tailoring?
UB: Almost impossible. Not me! I like my men in a nice sartorial jacket.

POP: What inspires you about the mix of traditional materials you use? Luxury seems to be high on the agenda, whether you’re using beautiful knits or superfine leathers.
UB: In menswear I don't think it should be over-designed. It can be risky. I like simplicity. And when simplicity meets luxury you get classic pieces. Also I grew up with beautiful clothes – my Dad has a pretty luxurious wardrobe.

POP: Do you prefer presentations to catwalk shows because they provide a more natural platform for the clothes?
UB: For menswear I would definitely choose a presentation. They are more natural – how menswear and men should be. It’s more real and artistic. The message gets out there more clearly – at least in the case of my work.

POP: How have you seen the internet’s influence on fashion have an impact on your own business? Do you have your own blog or Twitter?
UB: I think it’s the new way of life. It’s super-fast and easy. Even though I still prefer buying a magazine and feeling the nice quality paper, taking some time alone in a coffee shop and dreaming with the images. But the internet has definitely helped my business. I don't use Twitter, but if I had more time I would love to have my own blog.

POP: In the future will menswear be all about comfort and technology, or will tradition always have a strong part to play?
UB: I really don't have any idea where others will go, or where the system will take it, but I will for sure go more traditional. As well as travel, discover, and study other cultures.

POP: What are you most looking forward to?
UB: Getting back in shape! Physically and mentally, I’ve had tough times after an ugly car accident I had at the beginning of summer.