POP 280 Monday, 3 May 2010
Today's Pop is Ashley. Yes, after a "strange siesta" he's back… and backstage with Vika Gazinskaya.
Highlight of Moscow's Cycles & Seasons fashion event, Vika Gazinskaya is less 'one-to-watch' than the lady you just cant ignore right now. From the Sartorialist downwards, every fashion blogger loves this Moscow-based designer and her trademark striking take on a non-vulgar modern chic. What is it with these Russians?
Here's a THEPOP.COM quick fire five. Bit rushed and bit drunk, so forgive the off-the-cuff questioning.
1. Vika, what were the moods and inspirations for this latest collection?
The ideas came from working with the fabrics; the new ones I researched at Premiere Vision. In every collection I try to explore the volume, the
shape. So basically this collection was about a new silhouette for me. I felt that the rectangle shape that dominated for the past 2-3 years was over-used
and I wanted something new. Fashion to me is like architecture in a sense that it always demands new solutions in form, and architecture was the main
drive for me this time. I worked the feminine silhouette but tried to find new proportion.
2. You seem to be a very big admirer of Stefano Pilati's tenure at Yves Saint Laurent. Explain how and why this designer inspires you so much.
Yes, I do love Stefano Pilati's work, but he is not the only one for me. There are 5 or 6 designers that I really follow and feel are very mordern and strong. Among them are Alber Elbaz, Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo, Hannah MacGibbon and Miuccia Prada. But yes, I admire Stefano and the way he works with the Saint Laurent archives. And, for me, his work defines a refined French chic.
3. I have seen glimpses of such real beauty and charm here in Moscow. I wanted to ask you about this city – your home city – in terms of it being both an inspiration and a 'fashion depressant'… What's the perecentage breakdown? Does it push you and hinder you equally, ie 50 / 50?
I am not really inspired by Moscow fashionwise, but I would never use the word depressed to define my attitude towards it. The truth? I just try to completely ignore Moscow's unfashionable nature.
4. Do you have a strategy for leaving then? Will you share it with us?
I would love to work for one of the designers that I mentioned above. Right now I am working on building up a reputation with international retailers.
In March I had my first show room presentation in Paris and the feedback was very positive. In Moscow very often one gets recognition only after
success abroad. I believe my work belongs in Paris, and that is where I am getting the most positive feedback from.
5. Pop has been here in Moscow shooting a 'Protection' story. Bombs, money mafia, corruption… Can (and should) fashion address social issues around us?
In some ways, yes. But personally I do believe that with the constant flow of aggressive information and terrible things that people get exposed to every
day, the primary role of fashion remains that of fantasy and fairy tale. Even if that is unrealistic or make-believe, I feel that's more important than ever.
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- Published:
- 03.05.10 / 12pm
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- FASHION, POP OF THE DAY
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